Why Giano Has The Best $20 Pasta in New York

At Giano in the East Village, Italian cuisine takes on a new life. With its name inspired by Janus, the Roman god of beginnings and transitions, the restaurant embodies a blend of tradition and innovation that makes its food uniquely unforgettable. Founders Paolo Rossi and Matteo Niccoli bring their heritage and a touch of creativity to every plate, delivering what many (including myself) call the best pasta in New York City.

I've been eating at Giano for 10 years and can definitively say the star of the show at Giano is the Rigatoni all’Amatriciana, a dish that Matteo humbly describes as “not the traditional recipe.” But what it lacks in strict adherence to Roman tradition, it makes up for with bold flavor and thoughtful preparation. “We create all these flavors, these layers of flavors, before putting the sauce on top,” Matteo explains. “That’s what makes the difference. That’s why it’s the best all’Amatriciana ever.”

The process starts with pancetta instead of the more traditional guanciale. “Pancetta has more meat, so you still get that bite instead of just fat,” Matteo tells us. The pancetta is caramelized with onion, allowing the flavors to meld before being deglazed with wine and vinegar and combined with a perfectly seasoned tomato sauce. A sprinkle of chili pepper adds just the right amount of heat. “It’s not too spicy,” Matteo notes, “but it activates the dish just enough.”

What truly sets the dish apart, though, is the fresh pasta. “The fresh pasta is like a sponge,” Paolo explains. “It absorbs the sauce on a much bigger level than dry pasta. Every bite is an explosion of flavor.” Giano’s pasta, made in-house daily, is vegan — a nod to both tradition and modern preferences. “In the old days in Italy, eggs were too valuable to waste in pasta,” Matteo says. “Our pasta has a rough surface, which grabs even more sauce and absorbs more flavor.”

It needn't take more than one bite to understand that to be true. The flavor that immediately hits you is a perfect blend of chew from the pancetta and the spice from the sauce. It's simple, and a delicate nuance of a twist on the classic recipe, but is always absolutely phenomenal.

Beyond the food, Giano’s atmosphere is a very similar reflection of its name. “The space is split in two,” Paolo explains, “with a modern design in the front and a cozy, rustic vibe in the back. It represents the two faces of Janus— one looking to the future, the other to the past.”

While some traditionalists may raise an eyebrow at their tweaks to classic recipes, Paolo and Matteo embrace the evolution of Italian cuisine. “Experimentation is part of our job,” Matteo says. “Sometimes you twist a recipe to see if something better can come out of it.”

At Giano, it’s not just about following tradition — it’s about creating a new one. For Paolo and Matteo, the ultimate goal is simple: “We want people to feel joy when they eat here,” Matteo says. “It’s about satisfaction.”

And Giano absolutely nails it. I've been satisfied by the very best pasta I've ever had every time. The energy that Mateo and Paolo bring to every service creates something magical and it's always worth the visit.