Why Nowon Is Fusing Korean Food Like Nobody Else in New York

It’s not often that you find a dish that perfectly encapsulates the essence of two distinct cultures. But at Nowon in the East Village, Chef Jae Lee has done exactly that. His chopped cheese ddukbokki isn’t just another trendy fusion dish — it’s a heartfelt homage to the city he loves and the heritage he’s rediscovering.

“Nowon started as a pop-up called ‘Him,’ which means strength in Korean,” Chef Jae Lee explains. “I quit my comfortable executive chef job at a hotel. I was 30 years old, and I was like, you know what? I need challenges. I wanted to just take a risk and try something new.” That gamble paid off in a big way. What started as a pop-up is now thriving as a vibrant restaurant serving dishes that bring together the flavors of New York and Korea in surprising, delicious ways.

The standout? His chopped cheese rice cakes — a playful twist on the classic Korean ddukbokki that marries the corner deli’s iconic chopped cheese sandwich with the chewiness of Korean rice cakes. It’s a dish that, according to Top Chef's Chris Scott, who knows a thing or two about creating memorable food experiences, is “one of the best things" he's ever had.

The process itself sounds deceptively simple, but it’s clear that Lee’s technical mastery and deep understanding of flavors elevate it far beyond just another fusion experiment. “We start with ground beef, marinated and seasoned up with sazon, Korean chili flakes, fish sauce, and roasted scallion oil that we make in house,” Lee describes. “We get the wok hot, season it up, and then fry the rice cakes to crisp them up. Then we add the marinated beef, break it down, and let the oil release before adding the rice cakes, miso sauce, creme fraiche, and American cheese. We toss it all together until the sauce binds everything.”

What you end up with is a dish that’s equal parts comfort food and fine dining. There’s the chewy, almost bouncy texture of the rice cakes, the umami-rich savoriness of the marinated beef, and the melty decadence of American cheese. And then, in a nod to the dish’s New York roots, it’s garnished with soy-pickled jalapeños, scallions, breadcrumbs, and aged Parmesan.

Chef Chris Scott, a seasoned Food Network veteran and founder of Butter Funk Biscuit Company, digs in with enthusiasm. “This speaks to the Korean aspect of you that speaks to that New York aspect of you,” he says. “I like eating this because I’m reminded of New Year’s Day. I’m reminded of street food. I’m reminded of the culture. I’m reminded of New York City. I’m reminded of bodegas. It’s like I’m feeling you and your journey all throughout this dish.”

For Lee, it is a homecoming. “One of my mentors asked me, ‘Jay, what is your story as a chef?’ I always thought about that when I was doing my pop-up. Even though I’ve never worked in a Korean restaurant, I grew up eating this food.”

Like so many chefs of his generation, Lee has come full circle, returning to the flavors and dishes he grew up with after spending years in fine dining kitchens.

“Coming from the cultures that we grew up in, that is our strength. So if we lean into it, that’s our biggest flex,” he says. “It’s when we don’t lean into that and shy away from it — that’s the biggest weakness.”

His words resonate deeply with Scott, who shares a similar journey. “I’ve worked in many restaurants all across the country for many years,” Scott says, “and I love the fact that you stay true to the story but you’re playful with the food. There’s so many aspects of that you see with a lot of chefs who are now coming home into their own.”

For Lee, it's very much what was at the heart of injecting his lived experience into Nowon. “Each bite brings me back to my childhood, to growing up in New York, to eating at bodegas,” he said. “This is what I want people to feel when they eat here.”

The chopped cheese ddukbokki at Nowon is more than just a creative fusion dish — it’s a heartfelt expression of Chef Jae Lee’s story, a celebration of where he’s from and where he’s going. And it’s setting a new standard for what New York City’s food scene can be. Because in a city defined by its ability to blend and adapt, Lee’s dish proves that sometimes the best way forward is by looking back.

During the month of October, hit up Nowon in the East Village and get rewarded! You can earn your share of $4,000 just by hitting it up and giving the Chopped Cheese Rice Cakes a go!